THE STORY
"South America is a place I love,
it's the grandest, richest, most powerful bit of earth upon this
planet............the more you know of that country, the more
you would understand that anythin' was possible - anythin'. Now
down here in the Mato Grosso or up in this corner where three
countries meet, nothin' would surprise me." (Conan Doyle:
"The Lost World")
RORAIMA
from the north
We are flying, in a small single
engine aircraft, over an ocean of puffy white clouds, concealing
endless and luxuriant rain forest below, heading towards an extraordinary
flat-topped plateau, rising above the world below, and the cloud
layer, like a giant fortress, an island in the sky. Its summit,
partially obscured by mist, is dark and forbidding, and its vertical
flanks are decorated by waterfalls, falling like delicate threads
of gossamer for thousands of feet to the forest below. The mountain
is called Roraima, the "Lost World" of prehistoric life
made famous in the 19th Century novel by Conan Doyle. It sprawls
across the point where Venezuela meets Brazil and Guyana, in northern
South America, and, until it was climbed for the first time in 1884,
there was speculation among scientists that its vast and ancient
summit might harbour life, perhaps even prehistoric life, protected
in isolation from exterior forces of evolution. That life on the
mountain is indeed unique was confirmed by the first expeditions
that eventually reached its elusive summit, but it took almost fifty
years of exploration to find a way to climb it. Mount Roraima is
just one of over a hundred spectacular tablelands of ancient sandstone
that lie in Venezuela, which the local indigenous Pemon people call
"Tepuis". Even today, they represent one of the least
explored regions of our planet. They are composed of some of the
oldest known rocks in the world, laid down in Precambrian times,
before life appeared on Earth.
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I first became interested in this area
of South America when, as a young biologist in 1968 and 1969,
I was working in a little known area of the Guyana Highlands.
I spent the next two years organizing an expedition that,
in 1971, took a team of scientists into unexplored territory
leading to Roraima's impressive northern prow, an overhanging,
sheer rock face. We parachuted in, then spent a month cutting
a trail through the forest before climbing a steep knife-edged
ridge, where no one had been before us, to the very base of
the prow. But we could go no further: the 1,200 feet of overhanging
rock between us and the actual summit was beyond our climbing
capabilities. Although our expedition had been rich in discoveries
of new species, especially of frogs, it was disappointing
not to be able to climb the prow, and I determined that one
day I would return to stand on that elusive summit.
RORAIMA's
PROW from the north ridge 1971
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